목재도장법 How to Finish Wood

출처 : http://www.wikihow.com/Finish-Wood

목재의 도장법 How to Finish Wood

목재도장은 목재가공작업의 주로 마지막 단계이다. 흔히 마감재로 불리는 여러가지의 보호용 코팅재를 적용하는 경우 더욱 두드러진다. 오래된 가구를 재도장하거나, 새로운 가구를 만드는 경우에도 최종단계에서는 도장작업이 이루어 져야 한다. 여기에선 이러한 목재도장 작업에 있어 몇가지 단계를 통해 목재도장을 쉽게 할수 있는 방법을 안내할 것이다.

Finishing wood refers to the final step in any woodworking project, or, more specifically, to applying one of many kinds of protective coating, usually clear, generically called "finish". Whether you're restoring an old piece of furniture, or building a brand new one, you're going to want to bring it to life with this final step. Here are some steps to guide you as you learn how to finish wood.

목재 샌딩. 목재는 기본적으로 약간의 흠이 있다. 이라한 흠결이 제재소에서 제재과정에서 발생했을 수 도 있고, 목재를 다루는 도중에 발생할 수도 있다.

• 만약 이러한 목재의 흠결이 제거되지 않는다면, 마감재를 바르면 그 흠결부분이 도드라져 보인다.

• 처음에는 80에서 100방 정도의 샌드페이퍼를 이용하여 샌딩을 한다. 이러 처리를 한 경우 거의 대부분의 흠결이 제거된다. 또한 샌딩을 항상 목재의 나무결 방향으로 하여야 한다.

1

Sand the wood. Wood will have flaws, no matter whether marks have come from the machines at the mills, or it has become scratched or gouged during handling, or from wear and tear.

• If these flaws aren't sanded away, the finish that is applied will only highlight them.
• Start with sandpaper that has a grain of about 80 or 100-grit. In most cases, this will remove any of the flaws without causing worse problems. Always sand with the grain of the wood.

2

Repeat the sanding process with a progressively finer grain, until you've reached anywhere between 150 and 180-grit. These repeated rounds of sanding will remove the course-grit scratches from the previous passes.

 좀더 고운 표면을 얻기 위해 샌딩을 반복한다. 보통은 150에서 180방 사이의 마감이 적절하다. 또한 이런 재샌딩은 이전 거친샌딩에서 발생할 수 있는 흠집 등을 제거할 수 있다.

3

Inspect the wood to determine whether or not you're satisfied with the surface. You can use a high-intensity light, or wet the wood with paint thinner to magnify any remaining blemishes.

표면이 만족할 만한 수준에 도달하였는지 체크한다. 고광도 광원이나 확대할 수 있는 도구를 이용해 표면에 잔존물이 남아있는지를 검사

4

Test the color before proceeding with a stain. Wet the wood with paint thinner. If it is dark enough at this point, you can move ahead and apply only a finish. If not, then you'll need to apply a stain.

실제작업전 스테인색상을 테스트. 페인트신너로 목재를 적셔본후 충분한 색상이나 나온다면 마감칠을 하고 만약 그렇지 않다면 스테인 작업이 더 필요하다.

5

Apply the stain using a rag or a brush. Start in a test area, somewhere that won't be visible, to verify the color.

 헝겁이나 붓을 이용하여 스테인을 바른다. 처음엔 보이지 않는 곳에 테스트를 해보고 색상을 검증한다.

6

Apply the stain in a small area, like a leg or a drawer front, so you can get familiar with the drying time. If a stain dries too quickly, it can be re-liquefied by applying more stain. Wipe off the excess right away.

다리부분이나 서랍의 앞면등 자그만한 면적을 먼저 칠하고, 건조시간을 체크해 본다. 스테인이 너무 빨리 마른다면 좀더 시공한후 표면위에 남는 것은 헝겁등을 이용해 즉시 닦아낸다.

7

Continue applying the stain, brushing on a wet coat and then wiping away the excess before it dries. Always complete one surface at a time. Don't double up the application on any areas that have been completed, because this will cause a color change.

8

Raise the grain before applying a water-based finish. Water-based finishes are healthier, non-flammable, and environmentally friendly. But water swells wood fibers, often unevenly, and makes some stick up from the wood surface. A water-based finish can turn these into fine but noticeable hard, finished bristles.^[1] Remove these before applying it to create an even surface the finish can smoothly level itself over. Wipe down the surface with a wet rag. Allow it to dry. Sand it lightly with very fine sandpaper to scrape off the bristles - a few degrees off the direction of the grain to not allow them to settle back into the recesses from which they arose, and not more than necessary so as not to expose new wood to form more bristles.^[2]

• You can also carefully sand off any bristles that appear after the first finish coat^[3]. Apply at least two more coats for a thorough, even finish over the first coat, which will be more heavily sanded than usual for a finish coat.

9

Apply a finish to protect the wood from water damage, dirt, or stains.

• Water-based polyurethane is the best finish for bare wood, as it highlights the features of the wood itself, such as the grain and the natural color.
• Oil-based polyurethane is the best finish to apply to increase durability in combination with a stain.
• Wiping varnish (oil-based polyurethane thinned 50% with paint thinner) is the best application for stained, decorative pieces. It is easy to apply flawlessly, but will not help a piece withstand wear and tear.

10

Apply the polyurethane using a bristle or foam brush that is about 2 inches (5.08 cm) wide. Allow the first coat to cure overnight.

1. 11
   Sand the first coat, using 280-grit sandpaper, or finer. Remove the dust with a tack rag or a vacuum and then apply the second coat.

12

Apply the second coat just like paint. When there are bubbles, remove them by brushing back over them. When possible, move with the grain of the wood. On flat surfaces, brush side to side, and front to back. Apply the finish as thinly as possible, and line the brush strokes up in rows, so that the finish covers evenly.

13

Sand each coat, once it's cured, to remove any dust nibs. Again, remove the dust.

14 Repeat the application process two or three times. Do not sand the last coat.

• Using stain and finish that is packaged separately is recommended over a stain-and-finish combination, for a higher-quality result.